изображение загрузчика
Январь 30, 2017 /
WBC 2016 Правила встряски

Just before the weekend you may have stumbled upon a press release from World Coffee Events. It details some significant rule changes to the World Barista Championship for 2016 onwards. See the article here. I’d like to spend this week exploring and discussing these changes, and how they will affect the competition. I’ve also collected some responses and thoughts from some heavy-hitters around the world to give a broader perspective. Thanks to Hidenori Izaki, James Hoffmann, Gwilym Davies, and John Gordon for their time and minds.

In summary, there are two aspects of the competition that are changing: the капучино course, and grinders. Cappuccinos will become a “Milk Drink Course”, eschewing the 150ml cup size and welcoming whatever the Barista prefers to serve. The supplied grinder – Mahlkonig’s K30 – will be the exclusive and compulsory grinder for all competitors. In no surprise to anyone, this announcement ruffled a few feathers. Many competitors and those involved in the competitions voiced their opinions on the social mediums, resulting in many disjointed and ultimately unproductive 140 character conversations. Before I start, I must remind everyone reading that I love the WBC and have been an active competitor for the last 6 years. During that time I’ve developed over 15 different routines for various competitions, gained an incredible network and received innumerable advantages for both my life and career. I won’t be stopping any time soon. I also need to disclose my relationship with Mahlkonig. I am an ambassador for the company, and am paid to educate others about, and represent, their products. This relationship in no way affects my opinions in this article. Mahlkonig didn’t ask to proof read or censor it, and I wouldn’t have written it differently if they had. Let’s dig in!

The Milk Course

For as long as I can remember, the капучино course has struck fear in the hearts of competitors. The капучино course was initially -serendipitously or deliberately- designed to be devilishly difficult to master; but not quite impossible. I’ve found myself remarking a number of times about how elegant and deceptively simple the капучино course can be, and over the years have developed a humble respect for its difficulty. A single espresso made from half of a 20-21g dose must be truly excellent in a number of ways to make a 150ml капучино shine. If your roast is underdeveloped, coffee choice poor, technique sloppy, grinder sub-par, milk texture lacking or any combination of the above, your капучино won’t score well. The капучино course has always separated the women from the girls, if you will. I love the капучино course because it forces Baristas to investigate ways to roast their coffee so it’s more soluble, use grinders that can extract more, develop techniques that create even extractions, texture milk to the very edge of creaminess, and choose coffees that are appropriate. If they don’t, their cappuccinos will taste weak and underwhelming. Whether intentional or not, the капучино course in its current form is responsible for the obligatory improvement of countless Baristas around the world. This is why I love competition. It forces one to improve more than they would on their own. These new rules change all of that.

1. The freedom to choose the volume of the drink will promote laziness and could result in the stagnation of Roasting and Barista technique.

Underdeveloped roasts (see my recent post here) are rampant in the Specialty Coffee Industry right now (see also Honey Co Coffee’s article on sour coffee). The ability to use less milk in the milk course reduces the responsibility of the roaster to improve development and the Barista to improve her technique. If one’s milk drink tastes weak, one can just reduce the amount of milk. It will certainly taste stronger, but it won’t be the best milk drink possible. A stronger milky drink from an underdeveloped roast or poor preparation won’t be rich, or sweet, or satisfying. It will likely be unbalanced, jarring and sour.

2. I love me a good Cappuccino. Well made Cappuccinos are rare. These changes could put them on the endangered list.

Without a worldwide and influential competition like WBC dictating what cappuccinos are, and celebrating them through inclusion in the rules, they could become few and far between. Gwilym Davies (2009 WBC Champion) has a few points to share along these lines:

“The WCE sets internationally accepted standards. The definition of a capp could now be set by the mass market (2nd wave chains) which are stronger at marketing and sales.

The capp is the most difficult milk drink to make: the баланс of foam depth, bubble size and temp is a skill baristas should have, like being able to pour a classic capp, not just a swan.

I like a 5oz single Capp made well and it is very difficult to get, I fear it will now be even harder.”

3. Opening up the definition for the Milk Course will increase judging subjectivity and bias enormously.

I’ve never met anyone that enjoys piccolo lattes, cortados, macchiatos, large cappuccinos and flat whites equally. This is because personal preference plays a massive role in how you perceive and evaluate a cup of coffee. If you hated macchiatos and a Barista competitor served one up to you, your personal bias – and perhaps prejudice – would influence the score of that drink even if you didn’t want it to. Competitions are already incredibly subjective affairs. There are myriad ways prejudice, bias and error can affect a judge’s scores. By opening up the definition of the Milk Course to ‘anything’, it will be even harder for judges to score Baristas accurately and fairly compared to one another. I have no doubt the scoring protocol will change with this new course. Nevertheless, any scoresheet will have an extremely hard time removing the incredible amount of subjectivity that has arrived alongside it. Will they be looking for баланс, clarity of coffee flavour, accuracy of descriptors or something else? Only time will tell.

4. The Milk Course opens the door to more experimentation, creativity and previously unfavoured coffees. It also puts more focus on the “forgotten course”.

The ability to manipulate the strength of the Milk Course will mean Baristas can readily choose coffees that would’ve been on the black list in previous years. Many washed Ethiopians, Kenyans and similar will become much more viable options under the new rules and I think this is great! A strong, juicy Kenyan Капучино, or a perfumed Yirgacheffe latte – when executed correctly – can be absolutely delightful. I’m also looking forward to seeing new combinations of milk and coffee being explored. Talking about ratios, dilution and texture will become de rigueur (which fascinates me) and competitors will be able to tailor a milk drink specifically to their coffee. This level of customisation certainly improves a Barista’s ability to serve drinks relevant to their coffee with honesty and intent. Cappuccinos are regularly perceived as the course you have to serve alongside an interesting espresso and signature drink. These rule changes will hopefully garner the humble Milk Course an even footing with the other drinks. Here are some words on this point from our Commander in Chief, Current WBC Champion Hidenori Izaki:

“The point that got my interest is the Milk Course. The Капучино category hasn’t been drastically changed for past 15 years, even though Specialty coffee has been progressing far beyond with experimentation in variety, process, roasting, and technical brewing areas.

The milk drinks actually served at cafes are also different from each country. This new Milk Course affords Baristas freedom to represent the flavor profile that they want judges to taste. I believe that you’ll see more innovation, creativity and originality from the change of rules and regulations.”

It’s not all bad, but there are certainly some aspects of the Milk Course – especially judging and scoring – that will need to be watertight for it to succeed.

Кофемолка

For serious Barista competitors, the grinder has always been a hotly debated and seriously considered piece of kit. In terms of technical scores and workflow, it’s everything. In terms of sensory scores, it plays a massive part in how your coffee will taste. For as long as I’ve known the competitions the espresso machine, water, baskets and cleaning products are all compulsory. So why not the grinder? Just like the Milk Course, there are pros and cons to the grinder becoming compulsory. All things considered, I’m in favour of this change.

1. A compulsory grinder levels the playing field.

As I mentioned above, the competitions already have a lot of subjectivity involved. The more we can “level the playing field” and focus on what really makes one Barista better than another, the better the competition will be. This rule change will place a lot more focus on Barista Technique and coffee choice. That is, their dosing, distribution, tamping, recipe and coffee. All of these things are crucial, and with a consistent grinder, the most skilled practitioner will yield a better result. Most Baristas around the world never get to choose their grinder. They make do with the equipment provided. Another aspect to this is levelling the financial playing field. Grinders are expensive, and I’d be glad to see many more first time and independent competitors towelling up the spoilt, well-supported Baristas from larger companies (I am one of those spoilt Barista competitors, so I feel like I’m allowed to say that). James Hoffmann raises an interesting point from when he competed and won the WBC in 2007:

“It’s a tricky subject to comment on succinctly. When I competed in 2007 I used the sponsored grinder, which seemed to shock a lot of people. I didn’t really have a job at that time, and I simply couldn’t afford to ship a grinder across the world. As such, I actually like the idea of a level playing field.

Barista competition isn’t about replicating the cafe, or the real world. It is a game, sport if you will, based on making coffee. The competition has a positive impact on many aspects of speciality coffee, and if this decision helps make the competition more sustainable then I am for it.

I understand that people will be frustrated, that they feel that this will deprive them of the ability to serve what they want – but that could be said about everything from the machine to the water. I hope this doesn’t put people off competing – it would be a shame for them to miss out on all of the benefits of competition.”

2. It could inhibit grinder development and discovery.

Now, I’m not saying the Mahlkonig will stop developing new grinders (quite the opposite mind you) but I am aware that this rule won’t allow Baristas to bring new ideas and equipment to the competition stage. In 2013 I brought the EK43 to the party, and – without an unbearable amount of hubris – I think I can say that it contributed to changing the way a large number of Baristas around the world brew and think about espresso. Will this rule allow us to miss out on the next EK43? John Gordon, frequent UK Barista Champ puts it well:

“Since 2009 my driving force to compete in barista competitions has been to better myself, my skills, my knowledge and my understanding of all things coffee. Competition has a great deal to do with my growth as it has always pushed me to explore something new, experiment and push the competition boundaries to create something new and hopefully amazing, from techniques and concepts to imaginative theories and ideas; all based on that constant growth throughout the training period for competition.

Similar paths of thinking have brought such rapid progression to our industry. Technology that we would not have dreamed of – even decades old equipment being given new life – have been innovated, discovered and rediscovered because of thought provoking barista competition routines. Baristas and coffee professionals busting boundaries and challenging the industry is what will keep the momentum going. With restriction comes frustration and frustration leads to paths dividing and another direction being taken.

‘Level the playing field’ it kind of feels like giving a group of small kids all 1st place in a running race just because they all participated. Where is the drive to do or be better?

The point that our industry is at with grinders right now is so important. Espresso machines are smashing the way forward and grinders are being left behind and it’s just now that the momentum on grinders is picking up. Let’s not restrict the imagination, inspiration and innovation of brilliant coffee professionals.”

3. No restrictions on grinders is unfair to Mahlkonig.

The espresso machine sponsors put in hard yards and стеки of money to support the competition. They have a strong presence at every round and their teams are on call. As payment for this, every competitor must use their machines. Mahlkonig puts in a similar level of effort, but their grinders haven’t been represented as strongly because they’re not compulsory. Without the grinder sponsor receiving adequate upside to their investment, they’d rather back out. If that happens there wouldn’t be a grinder sponsor, or a healthy competition.

4. Is it unfair for competitors unfamiliar with the K30?

The best Baristas are adaptive, resourceful and knowledgeable about equipment. I don’t think a compulsory K30 is unfair in this respect. The grinders are hardly difficult to come across, and one can learn their intricacies in minutes. They make delicious espresso, and pose no real limitations on the traditional and existing styles of espresso preparation. Some competitors will complain, as Gwilym explains below, although I would employ the classic saying “a bad tradesman blames his tools”. If the playing field is indeed levelled then this isn’t an issue. Here’s Gwilym: “I do worry the grinder decision could backfire on Mahlkonig, it [compulsory grinders] seems to have worked in the USA but the that is not the mirror to the world. Culture is very different elsewhere. I have a feeling competitors will get used to their own grinder and find changing to the K30 an awkward experience, not because it is worse but because it is different, and then bad mouth the K30. I really do not see the grinder decision to be a worry to the long term direction & growth of Speciality.”

В заключение

It’s somewhat confusing that the WBC has simultaneously moved towards more and less freedom for Baristas. These rule changes haven’t broken the WBC or killed its spirit like some have ventured to say, but they will definitely shift the landscape. I for one am looking forward to some crazy milk drinks, exceptionally proficient usage and understanding of the K30, and mind-bending ideas still being thrown across the judge’s table. The competition is alive and well, and I still heartily recommend that every Barista try doing it at least once! I’ll finish with a quote from Gwilym because I love him dearly:

“I like that there has been change, the best thing about rule changes is that things are happening, there is nothing like change to get people thinking & doing.”

Календарь тренировок

Найти курс с сертифицированным тренером BH

январь 2020

понедельник вторник Мы б четверг пятница Суббота Sunday
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
  • ITA: Бариста Один
17
18
  • Великобритания: Бариста Один
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
  • Великобритания: Бариста Один
26
27
  • FR: БАРИСТА ОДИН
28
  • FR: перколяция
  • ITA: Бариста Один
29
30
31

Новости и обновления

Зарегистрируйтесь, примите участие и оставайтесь на связи!

27
Оставить комментарий

Пожалуйста, Логин комментировать
аватар
Подписаться
новейший самый старший большинство проголосовавших
Уведомление о
Майк МакГиннс
гость
Майк МакГиннс

Very good and fairly written article. What is is, what will be will be, deal with it lol!

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

Hi Boris

Yes to both. You’ll be able to use two grinders, and either/both/one of them can be your personal one.

Борис
гость
Борис

After reading the release my questions to the WBC would be:
– in the case of multiple grinders, will they provide multiple grinders for competitors who use multiple coffees in their routine?
– Can competitors use their own K30’s or do they have to use WBC provided? Interesting because of factors such as blade wear / correct seasoning (think Scott Rao’s data on extraction yield over time, and the consequences of unseasoned blades
Whats your thoughts Matt?

Стейн
гость
Стейн

I don’t understand how this levels ‘the financial playing field’. If a barista wants to have any chance to win in this game he/she must use a K30 to practice from next year forward. Compare this to a present barista just stealing a grinder from the bar and using it for the competition run.

Брейден
гость
Брейден

That final quote really sums up the way I feel about this. I remember watching the U.S. Championships a couple weeks ago and I thought it was strange that every contestant had to use the same machine but could use any grinder they pleased. These kinds of regulations may level the playing field to some extent.

Борис
гость
Борис

So the most switched on competitors would probably be buying and using their own equipment – to season correctly and calibrate. Does that still level the playing field then?

Леви Андерсен
гость
Леви Андерсен

Thanks for the lesson. I’ve alsays been slightly bothered by the loose definitions on drinks from cafe to cafe. Great point about people *not* loving piccolo/lattes the same

Борис
гость
Борис

Thats true, it does level the field a bit. But I would put it to the WBC organisers that the supplied grinders need to be calibrated and seasoned to a standard protocol. Just as the espresso machines need a specific pump pressure and temp etc.

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

It levels the playing field in terms of grinder quality. It also assists in leveling the difference between independent and well-supported competitors. No one can argue that it’s less level than before.

Борис
гость
Борис

From experience most competition equipment from sponsors is new out the box. With the espresso machine etc it might not have the hugest impact, but from a grinder perspective thats pretty big

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

This is true, although MK is very aware of the effect of new burrs. They’ve been looking into technologies to compensate for that for quite some time now.

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

Good idea, but unfortunately not really viable in competition time. “Customising” a particle spread creates a lot of wastage. Also, you never know if it’s the same shape.

Chartree Treelertkul
гость
Chartree Treelertkul

Thank you for this topic . We will asking more when you are coming .

Weston
гость
Weston

Well with the Grinder, if you always Sift and screen your grinds then it wont matter what coffee grinder you use correct?

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

See above, I replied to another v similar comment.

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

They will be 🙂

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

You’re right about wbc, where they’re already champions supported by their country.

National and regional rounds won’t necessarily follow suit with these rules.

Стейн
гость
Стейн

A well-supported competitor probably has the option to train and use their own K30 for the competition. An independent competitor has a few scenarios: either he/she owns a K30 by chance, he/she buys a new or used K30 to train, or trains with a different grinder. The last two options puts the independent competitor well behind a well-supported one, more so then present. I might not be a major issue on world level, but on regional level I think it may scare new competitors off. Am I missing something?

Джастин
гость
Джастин

I thought it was changed to be that you are no longer allowed to bring your personal grinder. At least that is what I gleaned from the talk with Morrisey.

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

But don’t forget, this is world level only. National and regional rounds are still as per normal.

Том Эрвин-Уорд
гость
Том Эрвин-Уорд

Yeah I agree. It levels grinder quality but creates an even greater divide between competitors who have access to the official equipment to practice and those that do not. With previous rules a competitor with minimal support could practice with a grinder from their cafe or from their coffee company allowing them to master at least that. Now these competitors are forced to compete with both a machine and grinder that they have limited or no access to before competition day. These sponsor grinders are rarely used in the Australian market due to their serious limitations in the commercial environment.... Читать дальше

Джонни Дрейк
гость
Джонни Дрейк

Interesting. We also have other sponsors for barista competitions, does that mean their wares will become compulsory? We could really sort the men from the boys/women from the girls by making the same milk, coffee, tampers etc compulsory. But that would probably kill all the fun!
Perhaps it should go the other way…. Bring your own espresso machine. Might be interesting if the compulsory espresso machine was something like a strada or slayer.

Дункан Аллен
гость
Дункан Аллен

Not being a competitor I feel this may be a silly question: is there anything said about preground coffee being used?

Эндрю Фоли
гость
Эндрю Фоли

Hi Matt, Thank you very much for this article and great to hear commentary from John, James, Hidenori and Gwilym. Having considered the new rule changes, and certainly being in favour of levelling the playing field at WBC, I would have like if the competitor had a choice of compulsory grinders. Would it have been feasible for Mahlkonig to provide a choice of grinders, e.g the K30 and EK43? This would have allowed them to showcase two technologies / methods of grinding while also maintaining exclusivity. If would have levelled the playing field for competitors but also be less restrictive... Читать дальше

Мэтт Пергер
гость
Мэтт Пергер

You can bring your own K30.

Майкл Баттерворт
гость
Майкл Баттерворт

Great thoughts overall. I still maintain that if you want to have a truly level playing field all competitors must use the provided grinder and not be able to bring their own. We’ve had to use Mahlkönigs in the States for two years now and they’re great grinders, but they still vary greatly from grinder to grinder. At Quills we have a K30 twin in all four of our cafés and depending on the location it might be set anywhere from 1.4 to 4.1. That’s a huge difference! At my first USBC we weren’t allowed to touch the provided grinder... Читать дальше

Оскар Лалиберте Остальное
гость
Оскар Лалиберте Остальное

I think the issue here is that the two coffees that these two grinders produce are near incomparable, and both have their own very unique characteristics. Instead of picking a grinder that fine tunes one style of espresso (malkhonig vs. a similar but alternate equivalent), you’d be choosing between two entirely different options. Its the difference between picking between a Ferrari and a Lamborghini for a race, or picking between a Ferrari and a helicopter. They both technically get the job done, but they are in no way equivalent options. Not a perfect simile, but there we are. I best... Читать дальше

Вы успешно подписались!

Вы успешно подписались!

Вы успешно подписались!